Courrèges spring 2027: Drew Henry's debut is colorful, loosened and still a sketch

Drew Henry's first collection for Courrèges, shown at Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2026, was a loud, colorful and slightly undone departure from the sleek white futurism the house has leaned on for years. Critics split on the verdict in a useful way: most liked the clothes and the accessories, and several said the whole still reads like a set of ideas rather than a point of view. For anyone searching for Courrèges and Drew Henry's debut, here is what was shown, who is behind it, and what to judge it on.

What was shown

The spring 2027 show sat in a Paris schedule that ran from September 28 to October 6, 2026, with 68 shows and 33 presentations, according to Complex's rundown of the official calendar. The dates match the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode's page, which lists the week as running September 28 to October 6.

The palette was lime green, orange and pastels, mixed with knitwear, vinyl and deconstructed tailoring. Suits came in bold colors with frayed edges and leather belts left undone and hanging. Hats were oversized and slouched, in royal blue and matcha green, and some were drawn from archive pieces by Jean Barthet from the house's early years. The square-toed, bow-topped go-go boots came back distressed. A reworked Courrèges vinyl jacket reappeared as a messenger bag.

Henry described the show as a "breaking out of the white box," according to Another magazine's review, and added: "I didn't want this to be a singular person. It has to be human." Henry said he researched the archives extensively to balance new ideas with the house codes. Read next to the sleek, controlled and body-conscious look the house has been known for, that is a deliberate change of register, and a risky one for a label with a loyal audience.

Who is Drew Henry

Henry is a Central Saint Martins graduate who worked at Celine under Phoebe Philo, ran ready-to-wear at JW Anderson, rejoined Philo for her own label, and was senior design director at Burberry from 2023 until he joined Courrèges, as Daily Front Row summarizes. FashionUnited reported that he succeeds Nicolas Di Felice and started on May 6. The house is owned by Artemis, the Pinault family's holding company, per the same report.

That résumé is quiet, craft-led and tailoring-heavy, which helps explain why the frayed suits and the clean trousers were the pieces critics kept singling out. It also means this is Henry's first time putting his own name at the front of a house, so a first show that tries many ideas at once is less surprising than it looks.

What the critics said

Reviews were warm on the details and cooler on the whole. Charles Manning of Daily Front Row praised "a wonderful sense of color throughout," something he said was often lacking in the work of the predecessor, but called the layered navy dresses "rather slovenly" and found short A-line dresses styled on male models "gimmicky." Morgan Smith at Highsnobiety wrote that "Henry's Courrèges is off to a promising start, with killer hats and shoes to lead the way."

The most precise critique came from The Impression, which scored the show 8.3 out of 10. Reviewer Mackenzie Richard Zuckerman wrote that the show "felt more like an opening sketch than a fully resolved statement," and that "the next step will be focus." He also found it lacked the atmospheric presentation of Di Felice's recent shows.

Reality check: what a debut can tell you

A first collection is a pitch, not a product line. What walked down the runway is not what will be in stores in spring 2027, and the fuzzy loafers and slouched hats that dominated the coverage are the most photographable pieces, not necessarily the best sellers. As the what is haute couture explainer on this site explains, the couture tradition behind houses like this one is about craft, but ready-to-wear houses like Courrèges live or die by what a shopper actually buys.

There is also a history lesson inside the collection. Courrèges began in the 1960s with seed money from Cristobal Balenciaga, where André Courrèges had worked as an assistant, and the monogram's "C" stands for co-founder Coqueline Courrèges, per Another. Henry going back to the early 1960s archive, when the house was playful and colorful, is a smart way to claim the legacy without copying the minimalist version everyone already knows.

What to judge in the next season

Three things will tell us whether this is a direction or a one-off. First, whether the second collection keeps the color and the loosened tailoring or goes back to white. Second, whether the shoes and hats, the most talked-about pieces, turn into products you can find with prices and dates on the house's own site. Third, whether the styling choices that drew a "gimmicky" label settle into a point of view.

None of the reviews we read gave sales figures, and we have none. We have not seen a price list for the collection either, so any claim about what it costs would be guesswork.

Our take

Henry's debut is a promising, imperfect first chapter. The color and the tailoring are worth watching, the hats and shoes are the strongest case for the house's next product wave, and the main critique, that it is a collage rather than a statement, is fair. We would watch the fall 2027 show before deciding whether Courrèges has a new identity. We would skip the "new era" headlines until then.